FOOD FOR THOUGHT: The Apron rings in the Persian New Year

Persian New Year begins on the first day of spring.

For two weeks, Persians around the world gather together to celebrate rebirth and abundance. Food is central.

I celebrated Persian New Year on Monday by dining at my favourite restaurant, The Apron.

Located in the one-year-old Westin Wall Centre Vancouver Airport, The Apron (named after the airport ramp where planes are loaded, unloaded, fueled, and boarded) has consistently won me over with the “wow” factor.

So when I heard that Chef Hamid Salimian had created a Persian New Year’s menu, I invited a friend to join me for an experience. Chef Hamid has taken the foods of his childhood in Iran and given them a twist of technology.

An award winner at many international culinary competitions, and recipient of four gold medals at the 2008 Culinary Olympics, the chef doesn’t want the restaurant to be known as a molecular gastronomy restaurant, he just wants to make his food the best it can be.

The innovative chef plays with food. He uses nitrogen and other techniques to take “ordinary” food and create a taste that is new and pleasurable. I love bringing my guests to The Apron and watching their expression as they take a bite of puffed foie gras or the Persian-inspired burger. Their eyes widen and they pause in complete surprise that something could taste so good. “How does he do that?” they’ll ask.

For the special nine-course menu ($70), which is available until April 4, Chef Hamid used his grandmother’s recipes, as well as ingredients and dishes that are symbolic of the theme of rebirth. Some are national traditions. He presented each plate with a brief explanation of history and a description of the art on the plate. Then we raised our forks and cracked into abedogh kiar—yogurt with cucumber, mint, and wild flower.

Chef Hamid explained that herbs, pita, and feta are set out for guests to enjoy at any time during the New Year, so the next dish paid homage.

Gaote—pita, basil, feta, and preserved walnut.  Followed by salad-e olivieh with poached chicken, fingerling potatoes done in different textures, and green olives. The olives aren’t in their recognized state. In fact, many of the ingredients have taken on a new life.

Salmon, Seville orange foam, and sunchokes left us speechless.

Sablefish, octopus, eggplant, tomato—called mirza ghasemi. Then fesenjan—slow-cooked duck with orange and pomegranate. Lamb, red bean, parsley, stone-dry lime, basmati rice (with wild scallion—chef uses foraged greens, and well as local farm produce) on a plate dusted with hay ash. As chef said, “It’s all about the nose.” And it is. We inhale.

And then my favourite—faloodeh. Rice noodles, rose water, lime, and pistachios (“We put pistachios on everything,” said Chef) in a stainless steel bowl. Cold. Very cold. Sigh.

Bagh-lava with Akbar Mashdi Ice Cream finale. Chef nods to Akbar Mashdi – the man who brought ice-cream to Iran in the late 1800s. Preserved peaches (because Chef is a fan of the Mason jar and preserves as much as he can in the summer), almond mousse, chickpea crumble, bubbles of honey and other sweetness comprise this version of Baklava.

“I want to come back for the burger,” my friend said as we walked to the car.  We both smiled.

•The Apron: 3099 Corvette Way, Richmond, 604-238-2105.

***

Food Notes: Adam Hart, a nutritional expert and whole foods chef, will be at Galloway’s Specialty Foods (7860 Alderbridge Way) on Saturday, March 26, from 12 to 4 p.m.  He will prepare food from his book, e3 For LIFE, and be available for questions.

Arlene Kroeker writes about food every Thursday in The Richmond Review. She may be reached at akroeker@aol.com.